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Mini savoury brioches sandwiches - Mini pains briochés salés

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Enriched bread dough, sweet bread dough or brioche dough is something very appreciated in Morocco. Our Sephardic Moroccans have been making their wonderful Hallot/Hallah * (enriched bread served for Shabbat) which we also find in some bakeries during Ramadan in different shapes (crown, mini rolls, braided). The same sort of bread was made for centuries in the Arab word and Ottoman Empire. It was either prepared plain or laminated with fat or cheese.


Then in the 19th century, French baking injected a bit of influence on Moroccan baking due to the years of colonization. So finding French brioches in Morocco is a common thing. 

Homemade hallot
Casablanca, being a city of melting pot with an important pieds-noirs fingerprint, we use to get to try things at first hand before the rest of Moroccan cities. That was valid before Marrakesh took over with its increasing number of restaurant openings and Chef coming from all over the world to settle in.



These savoury brioches make a good starter on a Ramadan table, or just part of a buffet if you're hosting a crowd. Fill them with anything you like and serve them at room temperature.

The other good thing about these mini-brioches, they're freezer-friendly.



Ingredients
Makes about 40
Prep: 20 min - Proofing: 2 hrs - Baking: 20 min

Dough
  • 500 g of strong bread flour
  • 30 cl water and milk (50%-50%), lukewarm
  • 80 g of butter, soft, see notes (**)
  • 30 g of caster sugar
  • 1 1/2 tbsp of dried instant yeast
  • 1 tsp of salt
  • 1/2 tsp of ground black pepper

Egg wash
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 tsp of milk or water
  • Crushed black pepper, Caraway seeds, nigella seeds....

Fillings (suggestion of 3 types)
  • Small cooked meatballs, salad leaves, tomato sauce or ketchup, hard cheese, gherkins
  • Crab/shrimp/tuna pâté or rillettes, salad leaves or rocket, gherkins or capers, hard cheese, sliced tomatoes, basil leaves.
  • Cream cheese or labneh or jben, lettuce leaves or rocket, cucumber, thyme or chopped mint, black pepper
Top with 

  • Green olives, capers, cherry tomatoes..






Preparation

Mix the yeast with 2 tbsps of lukewarm water.

Make the dough by mixing all ingredients. Knead with a machine up to 10 minutes (flip the dough each 3 minutes and knead starting with speed 2 then finish with 3). Add bits of butter passed the first 3 minutes of kneading and carry on.

Cover and set aside to double in volume. Fold the dough on itself 3 times to redistribute the gas bubbles. 

Cut small dough balls (about 20g each) and roll them to have a smooth surface all around. Cover and set aside.

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C. Egg wash the mini-brioches and sprinkle different seeds to your liking. 

Bake at 180 degrees for 15 to 20 min or until it looks nicely golden.

Place them on a kitchen towel and cover. Use them when they're at room temperature.

The filling

I suggested 3 types of filling which can be served at room temperature. You could obviously get creative and make your own combinations.



Top each mini brioche sandwich with a caper, half a cherry tomato or an olive. Use toothpick to keep the mini brioche sandwich holding together.


Note

(*) Unlike a regular brioche dough, Hallot/Hallah is an enriched bread dough which has no dairy (milk/butter).due to religious restrictions. Water is used all the way while oil replaces butter.

(**) It's also perfectly fine to substitute butter with 30 ml of olive oil and an egg, but then you need to add this along with the rest of the ingredients then you start kneading, unlike for the the butter.



Mini-pizzas with tuna or anchovies, a Moroccan favourite

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A batbout/bread/pita dough or a puff pastry dough will make an adequate base for these mini-pizzas. You only need to flatten it thin and prick it before adding the filling on top and baking them.

Pizza has become a worldwide dish and it's an important element of Moroccan street food. The toppings have been totally Moroccanized to please the Moroccan palate: Seafood (shrimp, calamari) pizza, tuna pizza, ground meat/kefta pizza, tomato/onion/anchovy with loads of black olives remain the top Moroccan favourites and high selling items in many street food joints serving pizzas.


Today is dedicated to mini pizzas with tuna or anchovies which can be made ahead and frozen. They take a few minutes in the oven to be ready and you're in for a treat. You can also make a bigger version and freeze it too. Just pop it in the oven when you need it.

We love to serve small savoury bites on our Iftar/Ftour tables during Ramadan, these mini-pizzas are one of our favourites.

An Iftar/Ftour table for Ramadan

In a lazy day, I just open a pita bread or a batbout bread and use the two sides to make small mini-pizzas..It works too.


Ingredients
Makes 40 +
Prep: 10 min- Cooking and baking: 30 min

The dough (any of them)

  • Rough puff pastry or 3 shop-bought rolls   
  • Batbout dough
  • Bread dough

Tomato sauce (you may have leftovers)

  • 500 g of tomato sauce or peeled and diced tomatoes (from a tin is ok)
  • 1 medium-size onion, chopped or finely sliced
  • 1 clove of garlic, grated
  • 1 green pepper, chopped or finely sliced (optional)
  • 2 tbsps of tomato paste
  • 1 tsp of sugar if you are using tinned tomatoes
  • Salt, pepper to taste
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tbsp of dried thyme or/and oregano


Garnishing
  • Black olives, pitted
  • Grated cheese: mozzarella, edam, cheddar..
  • Tinned anchovies
  • Tinned tuna
A mega pizza for a family gathering in the making. Moroccan kefta and a a few things to top it


Preparation

Make the topping

Heat a frying pan, saute the chopped onions and the green peppers in a bit of oil. Salt to taste. Sprinkle some black pepper.

Mix the tomatoes with garlic, salt and pepper, tomato paste, sugar and simmer for 20 minutes. Add a half of the dried herbs and the olive oil at the end. Stir and set aside to cool. The sauce should be cooked and well reduced.

Shape and bake the mini-pizzas 

Whichever dough you will use, make sure to roll it 2 mm thin. Cut small circles using a round cookie cutter, a bowl or a glass. Prick a few times with a fork.

Place all the dough circles in baked sheet, previously greased and dusted with semolina flour (or use a baking paper).

Smear about 1 teaspoon of tomato sauce avoiding the edges, sprinkle some chopped onions and green peppers. Sprinkle the rest of the dried herbs on top.

Then place a bit of tuna or anchovies, black olives on top and finish off with grated cheese.

Bake in a preheated oven at 200 degrees C for 10 minutes. Serve at room temperature.


Savoury brioches and rolls with chicken and vegetable filling...and a pie too.

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These chicken and vegetables brioches/rolls/pies are very convenient for a picnic, as a Ramadan starter or even part of a buffet if you have guests coming over. They can be made ahead and heated when needed. You can also shape them and freeze them unbaked (yes, freezer-friendly).




Depending on my mood, I like to vary the flavouring, so sometimes it's Moroccan, sometimes it's with Indian twist..The base is roughly the same.

Instead of making chicken and vegetable bites, you could use ground beef/chicken/turkey, sliced sausages, shrimp or calamari. I also make them using chopped cold cuts. The options are unlimited.




I like to serve this to my family, especially those who are not into vegetables.

I know it's about savoury brioches in this post but I use the same filling except with puff pastry, ouarka or phyllo sheets..So if you are not into bread making, just get anything read-made to wrap this filling.




Ingredients
Serves 6 - 8 (or double if served as starters)
Prep: 25 min - Proofing: 2 hours - Baking: 20 to 35 min (depending on shape)

The dough
  • 500 g of strong bread flour
  • 30 cl water and milk (50%-50%), lukewarm
  • 80 g of butter
  • 30 g of caster sugar
  • 1 1/2 tbsp of dried instant yeast
  • 1 tsp of salt
  • 1/2 tsp of ground black pepper

Base filling
  • 400 g of carrots, julienned or grated
  • 400 g of courgettes, julienned or grated 
  • 200 g of button mushrooms, sliced (tinned are also good, drained)
  • 1 green or red pepper, chopped (optional)
  • 200 g of chicken filet, cut in small cubes or finely sliced 
  • 2 tbsps of olive oil
  • 2 tbsps of soya sauce
  • 2 tbsps of parsley, chopped
  • 3 tbps of green olives or gherkings, chopped 
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 80 g of hard cheese, grated (Edam, cheddar..)

For a Moroccan flavour, add
  • 1 tsp of mild harissa paste
  • 1/4 tsp cumin 
  • 1 tbsp of preserved lemons, rinds chopped

For an Indian twist, add
  • 5 curry leaves
  • 1/2 tsp of fresh ginger, grated
  • 1/2 tsp of Garam Masala powder or Madras powder
  • 1 tsp of green Thai chilis, sliced

For a Levantine twist, add
  • 1 tbsp of za'atar blend
Eggwash and extras
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Cracked black pepper
  • Caraway seeds
  • Poppy seeds
  • Nigella seeds (black sesame seeds)




Preparation

Make the dough ahead of time. You can also keep it overnight in the fridge and only make the chicken pie or brioches the next day.

Make the filling

Season the vegetables on one side with salt and pepper and the chicken on the other side.

In a large frying pan, sauté the chicken in oil for a couple of minutes. Add the vegetables and stir. Sauté everything for about 5 minutes. Add the rest of the flavouring and condiments only a couple minutes before you knock off the heat. Stir.

If you are going for Indian flavours, sauté the curry leaves along with the chicken.

Set aside to cool completely and make sure this mix is well reduced (no water).

Shaping the stuffed brioches

Passed the 1st proofing time where the dough should have doubled in volume, roll the dough on itself for a couple of times to release the gas bubbles.

Roll the dough maximum 3 mm thick. Cut small circles using a round cookie cutter or a glass. Fill and bring the edges together. Pinch them and shape a ball.

Place each brioche on a baking tray, covered with baking paper. Keep at least 8 cm between each brioche.

Slightly flatten each brioche.  Cover and leave in a warm corner to proof again. I keep them for 45 min depending on the season.

Make the pie

To make the pie, roll 2 folds of dough, place the filling and top with grated cheese.  Cover and fit the 2 sides. Press a fork all around to decorate and seal. 

Egg wash, prick a few times with a fork. Bake straight away for up to 30 minutes (see baking below).

Make the rolls

Roll a  rectangle of dough 8 cm * 12 cm. Spread the filling leaving the edges clean. Roll 3/4 of the rectangle in a neat way, Make long incisions in the last 1/4 , egg wash and finish rolling, making sure they appear on top while their edges is at the bottom of the roll. 

Place all the rolls in a baking tray. Cover for 30 to 45 minutes. Egg wash and bake (see baking below).


Baking

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C. Egg wash each brioche and rolls. prick the brioches with a fork a couple of times. Sprinkle anything you fancy: nigella seeds, caraway seeds, poppy seeds, cracked black pepper and seas salt or just grated cheese.

Making the pie
Bake brioches for about 10 min at 200 degrees then at 180 degrees C for another 10 minutes. Bake for about 30 minutes if you are making a generously filled pie.

Serve these bakes at room temperature or warm. They also make a nice picnic bite.



Easy Moroccan mini turnovers/chaussons with steak and chermoula

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We love turnovers, either with a sweet or a savoury filling.

If you are in Casablanca, you will always find these nice bites sold either around 10.30 am or around 5 pm in many bakeries, especially the old ones located downtown. The sizes might vary. My dad used to get me big ones (mainly with chicken) whenever he picked me up from my secondary school. I always got a snack especially if he picked me up at 5 pm, right after he finished his work..If it was 6 pm, I never got anything..

The 10.30 am and 5 pm hours usually correspond to when a good portion of working Moroccans living in Casablanca like to snack.



These steak and chermoula turnovers are not what I used to get when I was younger but they're not far off (you would get minced meat in Morocco since it's cheaper). It also a good way to use trimmed bits from a large steak. I make them and freeze them (unbaked or baked) when I make British steak and kidney pie. I just bake them when I need them.

Steak and chermoula turnovers with a rough puff pastry

And again, you don't have to shape these turnovers as so, you could make them rectangular or round-shaped, like mini-pies..

Morocco is a big exporter of capers and they can replace green olives in many recipes. Using anyone of them in this recipe will give you an extra layer of taste..


Steak and chermoula turnovers with a savoury shortcrust pastry


Ingredients
Serves 6 
Prep: 20 min - Dough resting: 10 min to 1 hour- Cooking: 15 minutes - Baking: 15 - 20 min

Use a rough puff pastry or a cheese dough or a savoury shortcrust dough

Savoury shortcrust dough

  • 250 g of all purpose flour
  • 125 g of cold butter, in cubes
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • 1/2 tsp of black pepper
  • 1 heaped tbsp of parsley, chopped
  • 1 tsp of mustard
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 3 tbsps of cold water
Steak filling
  • 300 g of steak filet, cut in small strips/cubes
  • 1 to 2 medium-size tomatoes, chopped and seeds discarded
  • 1 green pepper, chopped (optional)
  • 1 medium-size onion, chopped (optional)
  • 1 clove of garlic, chopped or grated
  • 1 tbsp of soy sauce
  • 3 heaped tbsps of pasley and coriander, chopped 
  • 1 tbsp of sweet paprika
  • 1/2 tsp of cayenne or harissa paste
  • 1/2 tsp of cumin powder
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsps of green olives, capers or gherkins, chopped 
  • 80 g of hard cheese, grated (Edam)
  • 2 tbsps of oil 
Egg wash
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1/2 tsp of water or milk


Preparation

Make the dough (make ahead)

Mix the flour with parsley, salt and pepper. Rub the butter in to make crumbs (or use a food processor with a blade).

Add the rest of the ingredients and quickly bring everything to a dough without overworking it. Slightly flatten to make an "abaisse". Wrap with cling film and freeze for 15 min or place in the fridge for 1 hour.

Make the filling

Mix the cuts of meat with the spices. Saute in oil over medium-high heat along with onions and green peppers. Stir.

Add the rest of the ingredients except cheese and olives or capers. Cook for another 7 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Add the grated cheese and correct the seasoning.



Shape and bake the turnovers

Roll the dough thin between 2 baking sheets. Cut circles whichever size you like. Place a bit of filling in the middle.


With your finger, smear a bit of egg yolk on half of the edge. Bring the edges together and pinch them making sure to seal them.

Place each turnover on a baking tray, covered with a baking sheet.

Egg wash each turnover, use a knife to give light incisions on top, not very deep. Also, form a tiny hole in the center so the steam comes out. Make sure the egg wash does not go over the edges or the dough won't puff like in the picture

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C and bake them at 180 degrees C until nicely golden (about 20 min).





Moroccan stuffed dates with almond paste and nuts

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In Morocco, we serve dates in cooked dishes (special tagines and couscous), in pastries, in juices, plain, stuffed with nuts or with a homemade almond paste.

The dates are also served during wedding ceremonies or any happy events. We receive our guests with a pile of good dates, namely Mejhoul (turned to Medjool when it reached Californian shores). The main drink to serve along side the dates is cold milk or almond milk juice. No tea, no coffee, just milk.

My dates need some pressure from the side to make them look neat


There is no Ramadan without dates. This is one of the first things we usually think to buy to follow a Sunna from the Prophet Mohammed SAAS.

There are so many dates out there and people favourite different ones. Some like them soft, some like them dry, some sweet, some less sweet..

Even those who come for a State visit will be welcomed the same way.

For today's recipe, choose sweet meaty dates and make a good homemade almond paste. That's all what you need.

Ingredients are an indication since the dates differ in size, so will the filling. You need to work out how much you need to make as many as you want.

Make the almond paste ahead of time and freeze it. I'm not counting the time to make it in the recipe as the blanched almonds need to be dried first before turning them into a paste.



Ingredients
Serves 20 
Prep: 20 min

  • 20 dates, ideally Mejhool/Medjool, 
  • 300 of blanched almonds (see below how)
  • 100 g of fine caster sugar 
  • 1 1/2 tbsp of good orange blossom water
  • 3 drops of meska/mastic gum.
  • Drops of food colouring (green, red or pink)


  • 1/4 cup of orange blossom water to rub the dates from inside
  • 50 g of caster sugar for a finishing touch


Preparation

Make the almond paste ahead of time

Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 3 minutes. Rub them between your fingers. The skin will easily detach.

Wash the peeled almonds and drain. Place them in a kitchen towel and set aside to dry. Give them a rub or two to speed up the process. We usually leave them in the garden for a couple of hours when it's sunny or just more hours on the kitchen's counter.


Pound the meska with 1/2 teaspoon of caster sugar using the back of a glass.

In a blender, mix the almonds, the sugar and meska, the orange blossom water and blend to a paste. You may need to get the almonds out and flip the mix a couple of time. This way, you are sure it's well blended.

Some almonds are greasier or less almondy than others. If you think you are dealing with bland almonds, add a drop or two of almond extract.

Now divide the almond paste into 3. Keep one 1/3 plain. mix 1/3 with a few drops of green colouring and the last 1/3 with the red colouring.

Depending on the size of the dates and their cavity, take about a tablespoon of almond paste and roll it between your hands to form small sausages or fingers. Set aside.

If you have a larger batch of dates to fill. make tall rolls/sausages of almond paste and then cut them into 4 cm bits by 1 cm.

Fill the dates

Open the dates from one side, remove the stones (we save them to tenderize meat while cooking plus other uses).

Use a kitchen towel or roll. Soak it in orange blossom water. Rub the dates inside and outside.
Stuff each dates with almond paste shaped as fingers just fitting the cavity. Slightly press the dates from the sides so they close tight on the almond paste.

My sweets for a fasting day

You could also apply some crossed incisions on the almond paste to make it look well finished. Roll that side on caster sugar.

Store in an airtight container. Place it in the cupboard or in the fridge. Serve slightly chilled or at room temperature depending on the season. Keep for up to a week..


For fun, you can possibly make some small incisions on the marzipan to look pretty.

Note

If you want to keep things simple, stuff the dates with slightly roasted walnuts or fried blanched almonds.


Placing the walnuts inside before pressing the two sides of the dates


Moroccan vegetable and white cheese (Jben) turnovers/chaussons

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Preparing a Ramadan table can be a very demanding job, compute this for 30 days..Now this is not required by religion and food should not be wasted. But people tend to have some craving during the day and their wishes are granted over that Iftar table. Iftar itself is a bit like a Eid (feast) for fasting people every single day throughout the fasting month of Ramadan.

The larger the family, the more you tend to serve on an Ramadan table. The reason being that everyone has a different formula or food preferences to break the fast.

One thing we all agree on in our family: the starters. There has to be a selection of sweet and savoury rolls, triangles, turnovers, pies and quiches, stuffed msemmens. They all come in mini-shapes.

I have to say we are not the only family operating this way, I suspect most the Moroccans city-dwellers who can afford this variety do that.

It will be a blessed food if you share it with people in need, so we do regularly have someone knocking just before Iftar for food. A tray of the same food served for the family should be served to the person who is considered "Daif Allah" (God's guest). Somehow, the food tastes even better when things go this way.

A lot of prepping goes in this. Having a freezer comes in handy since many recipes can be made ahead, or at least halfway. Check the Ramadan tag on this blog or use the search box for "freezer friendly".

In the process of filling a Ramadan Iftar table, So far the soup of the day as well as a selection of turnovers and rolls are being placed 
Today, I'm posting a simple recipe of a cheese and vegetables turnover which is easy to make. For a lighter version, use ouarka or phyllo sheets to make rolls instead and bake them until golden.



Ingredients
Serves 6 - 8 (or double if served as starters)
Prep: 25 min - Proofing: 2 hours - Baking: 20 to 35 min (depending on shape)

The dough
  • Use a rough puff pastry for the turnovers or ouarka for the rolls (a lighter version)
Base filling
  • 300 g of carrots, julienned or grated
  • 300 g of courgettes, julienned or grated 
  • 1 medium-sized onion, chopped
  • 80 g of button mushrooms, sliced (tinned are also good, drained)
  • A handful of chopped spinach leaves or lettuce leaves
  • 100 g of cold cuts, chopped (Mortadella, spicy cacher sausages sold by North African butchers)
  • 1/4 tsp of ground ginger
  • 1 clove of garlic, grated
  • 1 green or red pepper, chopped (optional)
  • 2 tbsps of olive oil
  • 1 tbsp of soy sauce
  • 2 tbsps of parsley or chives, chopped
  • 3 tbps of green olives or pickles (gherkins, carrots, red peppers), chopped 
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 80 g of hard cheese, grated (Edam, cheddar..)
  • 80 g of white cheese (Jben, strained ricotta)

Eggwash 
  • 1 egg yolk

Preparation


Make the filling

In a large frying pan, sauté the onions for a couple of minutes. Add the carrots, courgettes, mushrooms and stir. Season with salt and pepper.

Sauté on high heat for another 3 minutes while stirring. Season and carry on cooking for another 3 minutes at maximum. Set aside to cool.

Add the rest of the ingredients except the white cheese (jben or ricotta). Place the mix in a sieve and press it. You don't want to have any liquid coming out in the dough.

Shaping the turnovers

Roll the dough in length as much as you can but only maximum 2 mm thick. Place a tablespoon of vegetable filling, then top it with white cheese. Space between each filling.



Fold the dough on the filling and apply pressure on the sides all around it making sure to get rid of any air that might be trapped. You could smear egg yolk inside the edges to make sure the dough sticks but make sure it's not too much or it won't stick.

Cut all around the pressed surface each "half moon". Pinch the edges or decorate them in any way you know.

Place the turnovers on a baking tray, covered with baking paper.


Baking

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C. Egg wash each turnover. Make sure the egg wash does not go over the edges or the dough won't puff like in the picture.

Give the top a couple of incisions. I also make a small hole with a knife right in the middle  Bake for about 20 mins at 180 degrees C or until nicely golden.

Serve at room temperature.











Moroccan white cheese (Jben) and cold cuts turnovers/chaussons

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As Ramadan is on its way, many Moroccans are looking for recipes to fill their tables with irresistible food.

In our family, we like to serve mini starters along with the soup of the day for Iftar/Ftour. So basically this would come in savoury and sweet version.


I personally skip the soup most of the time, I like to start with those mini bites along with a warm drink or a light juice..

Using Jben or white cheese in savoury baking is a very old Arab tradition and we're only reshaping the outcome and adding more ingredients.

I like to make sandwiches with jben (Moroccan white cheese) and cold cuts (Mortadella, cacher), and that's exactly what's inside these turnovers I'm suggesting today.

Now Jben rolls, triangles or turnovers are not freezer-friendly as they tend to burst and leak during baking. I suggest you make them the same day.


Vegetable and cold cut turnovers with puff pastry and rolls with ouarka sheets

Ingredients
Serves 8 -10
Prep: 25 min - Baking : 20 min

Filling
  • 150 g of cold jben (ideally Jben Saiss)or white cheese, drained.
  • 100 g of cold cuts, chopped (Mortadella or spicy cacher, check with North African groceries)
  • 60 g of hard cheese, grated
  • 3 tbsps of green olives or gherkins, chopped
  • 2 tbsps of parsley or chives, chopped
  • Salt and pepper to taste
Shaping
  • 60 g of butter, melted and cooled


Preparation

Mix the ingredients listed for the filling.

Roll the dough thin and in length. Place a teaspoon of filling after each 8 cm. Fold the dough on the filling and apply pressure around the filling, letting the air escape.


Shape the small turnovers. Cut and pinch the edges to seal them. You can use egg yolk to make sure their sealed.


You can make them a few hours ahead of time. Cover and place them in the fridge until you are ready to bake them.



Egg wash each turnover and decorate it with a couple of light incisions which will also help the steam to escape. Make sure the egg wash does not go over the edges or the dough won't puff like in the picture



Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C. Bake at 180 degrees C for about 20 minutes until nicely golden.


British steak and Kidney pie

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Steak and kidney pie is, hands down, my favourite British dish. Since I started making it at home, I went for the 3 times National champion recipe right there and I never changed it since.


Passed the smell of kidney when it's cooking in the first 15 minutes, you will be left with a wonderful filling to make one of the yummiest savoury pies in this world.

I serve steak and kidney pie at least twice a month. I  prepare small steak and kidney pies and freeze them unbaked. Then I thaw it in the fridge for a day and bake it at dinner time. Serve with salad on the side. Give this a try!

My recipe is adapted from The Windmill Mayfair. It even comes with a video.

Another steak and kidney pie baked in another occasion


Ingredients
Serves 6
Prep: 10 min - Cooking: 1 h - baking: 30 min

Savoury shortcrust dough (make it ahead of time)
  • 250 g of all purpose flour
  • 125 g of cold butter, in cubes (original recipes call for suet/shortening)
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • 1/2 tsp of black pepper
  • 1 heaped tbsp of parsley, chopped
  • 1 tsp of mustard
  • 3 - 5 tbsps of cold water
Filling
  • 650 g of beef steak at room temperature (for fast cooking) or skirt/brisket/oxtail, top side for long cooking
  • 250 g of kidney (beef or lamb), membrane peeled, cut into small cubes
  • 100 g of white mushroom, chopped (add other mushrooms for deep flavour)
  • 1 medium-sized yellow or white onion, chopped
  • 20 g of corn starch or flour
  • 2 tbsps of Worcester sauce or soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp of Dijon or English mustard
  • 2 tbsps of tomato sauce, ketchup or a chopped tomato (optional for me)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp of dried thyme or a sprig fresh
  • 2 tbsps of parsley
  • 3 tbsps of oil (original recipe calls for dripping)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 250 ml of water or beef stock (initial recipe calls for beer too)

And another steak and kidney pie in another different occasion


Preparation


Make the dough 

Mix the flour with parsley, salt and pepper. Rub the butter in to make crumbs (or use a food processor with a blade).

Add the rest of the ingredients and quickly bring everything to a dough without overworking it. Slightly flatten to make an "abaisse". Wrap with cling film and freeze for 15 min or place in the fridge for 1 hour.

Make the steak and kidney filling


In a large pan, heat the oil. Add sliced or chopped onions and cook them for a few minutes until soft.

Add in batches of chopped meat (or cut in small cubes) so it fries instead of boiling (too much meat in the meat will cause steaming). Stir. Cook for a few minutes.

Dust the flour into the pan and stir from the bottom of the pan. The mix will darken a bit and that's good. 

Add the kidney, the chopped or sliced mushrooms. Stir. Give it a couple of minutes then add the rest of the ingredients except the parsley. Stir and cover. Bring to a simmer on low heat for 60 - 80 min if using long cooking meat or 30 min if using fast cooking meat. In the end of the cooking process, you want the meat to be tender and the sauce to turn to a nice gravy with a body.

Season to taste and allow to cool.

In a pie dish or medium-size ramekins, place a bit of filling (at your discretion). Cover with rolled dough. Trim around the edge but be generous on the sides so the dough does not fall in the middle of pie dish. 

Egg wash, make patterns with a knife or a fork. Make a hole in the middle so the pie breaths the steam out.

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees C and bake at 180 degrees C for 30 - 40 min until nicely golden.

Serve slightly warm or just about room temperature.


Note

Sometimes, I do sneak in some vegetables such as peas, spinach or carrots.




Quince paste turnovers/chaussons

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This has to be the easiest recipe of sweet turnovers. I only use leftover puff pastry dough to make it.

These quince paste turnovers can be served to satisfy a craving for a sweet bite but also served along some strong cheese such as blue cheese. They go well together if you omit the cinnamon.


Quince paste is a Spanish product sold in Northern Morocco. But you can also find it in Spanish shops (I found some in Notting Hill).

No quince paste? Make some quince preserve when they're in season just like our Sephardic Moroccans do. It's lovely.

No quince in sight? Use any thick jam but quince is majestic! So try to find it.



Ingredients
Serves 12 
Prep: 10 min - Baking: 15 -20 min

For the wrapping

  • 800 g cold all butter puff pastry (I use homemade puff, find the classic here or the quick here) OR
  • Croissant dough (leavened puff pastry)
  • 1 egg yolk 
For the filling
  • 400 g of quince paste or jam or preserve, shop bought or homemade, at room temperature
  • 1/2 tsp of cinnamon 
Egg wash
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1/2 tsp of milk or water


Preparation


Preaheat the oven at 220 degrees C. 

Roll the cold dough in length and only 2 mm thin. Place a teaspoon of quince paste or a small but if quince preserve. Sprinkle cinnamon on top.


Smear the dough with egg yolk around each quince filling. Fold the dough on it and press to seal the edges of each half-moon.

Cut each turnover and place it on a baking tray covered with a baking sheet.

Egg wash, make patterns with a fork. Prick or make a hole in the middle to let the steam out during baking. Make sure the egg wash does not go over the edges or the dough won't puff like in the picture.

Bake at 200 degrees until nicely golden.

Serve at room temperature, never hot or warm.





Smokey and nutty Mtabbal Badinjan (or eggplant's Mutabbal)

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How you prepare your eggplants will make all the difference in this famous Levantine mezze/starter.

Before we get on with the recipe, what looks like Mutabbal for some is considered Baba ghanouj for others. The two have many ingredients in common.

So the confusion is on a worldwide scale. However, if you go to a Syrian restaurant, they will be clear on which is which (on a general note), while some other Middle Eastern countries will call this Baba ghanouj (- the yogurt)

Roasting the eggplants in a oven would not give you an authentic smokey taste. Your best bet is charcoal or over an open flame of a gas knob  and you just rotate every 4 minutes until it's done.


Now the seasoning of the mashed eggplants is also a matter of personal preference. Some like more tahini, some like more lemon..You just have to adjust it to your own taste.


Ingredients
Serves 4
Prep: 5 min - Cooking: 20-30 min

  • 1 medium-size eggplant/aubergine, roasted (char-grill or over a gas knob is the best option)
  • 1 tbsp of tahini
  • 1/4 - 1/2 cup of thick natural yogurt
  • 2 tbsps of fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 tsp of vinegar
  • 1 raw garlic clove , grated (or less, depending on the garlic used)
  • Salt to taste
For garnish
  • Good extra virgin olive oil
  • Paprika
  • Parsley, chopped


Preparation

Prick the eggplant in different places. Roast it until it looks withered and charred from outside. Place in a plastic bag for a couple of minutes then remove the skin.



Scoop the flesh and transfer it to a strainer. Press the eggplant against it and discard the liquid. 

If you have used a type of eggplant which has a lot of seeds inside, discard them. Some are bitter.



Add the rest of the ingredients and mash the mix with a fork or chop them transfer to a pestle and mortar. Using a food processor for this is not my thing. I like a rough texture with tiny bits of eggplant.

Garnish it and dress it with the best extra virgin olive you can get hold of, Sprinkle some paprika and chopped parsley.

Serve chilled with pita bread or crackers...



Moroccan Griouech/Mkharqa with almonds paste

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Griouech or M'kharka/Mkharqa is a fried Moroccan sweet which gets soaked in honey. It's served throughout Ramadan along with the soup of the day which is Harira in most cases.

And since Harira is also served for breakfast after a long night wedding ceremony, this sweet is also served. They go hand in hand.



Moroccans themselves confuse chebbakia with griouech. It's an accepted mistake. I've been there too.

Chebbakia is a descendant of zellabia or jalebi. It's made of a runny dough which is then poured into hot oil using a funnel. We mostly buy it since only expert get its texture right (it's also a men's job).

Chebbakia is the one on top (with a funnel), Griouech or Mkharqa
is the one at the bottom (hand-shaped)

I have posted a recipe for Griouech or Mkharqa which is a keeper and it is usually the recipe I work around to make a standard version. But there was a version that only my senses could remember: a chewy fried and honeyned griouech with the taste of meska (mastic gum) coming through and soaked in a honey that seemed so deep in flavour you would always remember it.

In my last summer trip to Morocco, I found some griouech in my mother's freezer. I tried one, then I went for another. Then I asked her where she did get that wonder from. One of my aunties did send it to her from Fez. It was exactly what I was after, that old memory of a good fragrant and chewy griouech came to punch me in the face, but this time, with a potential recipe in the end of the tunnel.

So here is my auntie's recipe.

Since this dough has yeast in it, remember to shape the dough fast or get a second pair of hand to help out. The dough has to be rolled thin and should not stay long after shaping in a warm environment so it remains aesthetically nice after it is fried.




Ingredients
Makes 60 +
Prep: 45 min- Resting time: 4 hours minimum or overnight- Frying: 3-4 min /batch- Soaking: 1 - 2 hours


  • 500 g of all purpose flour (not strong bread bread flour)
  • 100 g of golden unhulled sesame seeds
  • 150 g of fine almond paste ( 120g blanched almonds ground to paste with 30 g of icing sugar)
  • 3 g of baking powder
  • 1 good pinch of salt
  • 1/2 tsp of ground cinnamon
  • 1 good pinch of saffron threads, mixed with 1 tbsp of warm water for at least 10 min
  • 1 tsp of ground aniseed 
  • 3/4 tsp of mastic gum (ground with about 1 tsp of caster sugar)
  • 160 ml of fat mix (1/3 melted butter, 1/3 olive oil, 1/3 vegetable oil)
  • About 70 ml of orange blossom water (don't add it in one go)
  • 5 g of instant dried yeast
  • 3 tbps of white vinegar (neutral taste)
For frying
  • 1.5 liter of vegetable oil (for a 22-25 cm pan)
For the honey
  • 1.5 kg of honey ( I mixed clear honey + mountain honey + acacia honey)
  • 1 tbsp of orange blossom water
  • A pinch of ground mastic gum (meska)
For decoration
  • Toasted sesame seeds or chopped blanched and fried almonds for decoration 




Preparation

The dough

If you are buying unhulled sesame seeds "en vrac", make sure you clean them from any stone or bad sesame seeds. You may need to wash them and dry them thoroughly.  The last step will be to toast them for about 5 min while stirring until it smells "sesame seeds". Grind them very finely.

Mix all dried ingredients (finely ground sesame seeds, finely ground aniseed, cinnamon, salt, flour, crushed mastic gum). Pass them through a fine sieve to make sure the mix is smooth and not grainy. You may need to repeat this twice.



Add the almond paste, fat and the saffron water and work with your hands (or in a food processor) as if you are making a shortcrust dough: the idea is to make sure that every grain of flour absorbs the fat. So rub with fingers, give it some "fraisage"...Cover and set aside for at least 2 hours (better overnight).


Passed that time, mix in the baking powder (make sure there are no lumps), the yeast, the vinegar and the egg then the orange blossom water to bind the dough. Knead the dough for a few minutes to get a smooth texture. The dough should hard and not sticky. Actually, the dough should be harder than a regular bread dough as it will relax later on. This is one of the tricks to achieve a good texture which will last for days.

Divide the dough into 4 and cover tight. Set aside for 30 min.

Shaping griouech

Take 1 ball at a time while keeping the others covered.

Have a small bowl of flour on the side in case you need it to roll the dough.

Roll it maximum 1 mm thick. Make sure you lift to aerate beneath it before going further.

Use a cutting wheel to cut long strips of dough of 10 cm width.

The one on the left is a tradional Moroccan cutting wheel fit for
the job, but you could use another dented wheel
Follow the directions in the pictures to see where you should cut the smaller strips to form the flower and how to define the square or rectangle for each flower. Today I'll give you the heart form and the traditional 5 strands griouech.
How to make a 5 strands griouech


5 strands griouech:

Roll the dough thin then fold it in three on itself (picture 1). Roll it again (picture 2) maximun 2mm thin. Release the dough from the work surface.

Cut long dough strips of 10-11 cm large. Then pass the cutting wheel from top bottom to top, leaving about 8 mm between each strip as well as the edges (picture 3).

Lift one strand and drop the other, you will have 2 versus 3 (pictures 4 to 6).

Bring together the two corners of the rectangle located at the bottom. Pinch to stick them together (picture 7).

Use the other hand and try to delicately open the griouech from its middle (picture 8), push the pinched corners towards the top (picture 9). The previous bottom part will now be popping out of the middle of griouech.

Place the flower/griouech in a tray and pinch the 2 corners.

Cover all these creations with a cling film or another kitchen towel.

The honey

Mix all ingredients and warm it for about 5 to 7 min. slightly warm it, Set aside. It shouldn't it be used cold while we dip the griouech in.

Frying and honeying griouech

These cookies are usually deep-fried (see introduction with note about baking). So you need a deep pot. For 1 liter of oil, I use a 22-25 cm large pot. You need to fry these cookies and bare in mind you need space to turn them. They also tend to expand a bit.

Once the oil is medium hot (not too hot), start dropping the flowers one by one. They usually land at the bottom but will float in the process. Fry from each side until nicely golden brown from both side. Each batch usually takes up to 3 minutes.

You know the oil is hot enough when you drop the uncooked griouech and it
makes these air bubbles which will disappear in a few seconds

Use a spider to fish the flowers carefully. Place them in the honey which shouldn't be hot at this stage. Delicately push each one and make sure it's fully soaked. Keep them in the honey for about 1 hour until they are completely cooled and they have soaked enough honey.

Decoration and storage

Once the griouech had time to get coated with honey, use a slotted spoon to fish them and place them in a strainer to get rid of excess honey.

You can:

1- store the cookies at room temperature but they're at their best only within 2 to 3 weeks depending on the weather.

2-  freeze them and thaw them about 20 min before you serve them.

In both cases, griouech should be stored in an airtight containers with layers or plastic or cling-film between each layer of the honeyed cookies. This will keep them intact and easy to pick without breakage.


Well I hope you give them a try, they could daunting in the beginning but usually you get the hang of it after the first 3 or 4 mis-shaped flowers. They're worth the effort.



Moroccan barley soup with agriche

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Barley is widely used in Morocco to make soups, bread, couscous and galettes. Its deep flavour is appreciated across North Africa and people also believe in its health attributes.

Barley soup comes in a white version with milk, a yellow version with less paprika/tomato addition and a red version with a bit of tomato paste or grated tomatoes. The last version gets the Khlii treatment in the city of Fez, which makes it even tastier. It's a soup that hardly needs spices.

Ramadan lasts 29 to 30 days and soups are served at Iftar/Ftour (the time we break the fast). In our family, we usually have 2 soups of the day because not everyone likes the same thing, but also because there is always leftover soup from the previous day. Barley soup is one of the Moroccan soups that will be served when someone fancies it.

Tchicha with khlii and agriche and less tomato paste

If you don't have khlii or khlii sediments, use a smokey ingredient such as bacon. It won't be similar but at least it will lift it a bit.

Khlii can be made using an express method. Its sediments are widely used in Fassi kitchen to flavour many dishes. It's a condiment on its own.

If you can't have khlii for whatever reason, make a seafood version of this dish by adding fresh prawns (shell on for more flavour) and chopped squids. I won't suggest supermarket-frozen packets for this recipe.

Tunisian-inspired version with prawns, it takes a bit more tomato paste 

I also make tchicha soup with the meat from Merguez or mini Moroccan spiced meatballs (with cumin, paprika, parsley and coriander). This could be another option to explore in case you can't get hold of khlii.

Version with meatballs: I added meatballs in the last minutes, along with the coriander


Ingredients
Serves 4 to 6
Prep: 5 min - Cooking: 35 min


  • 1/2 cup of barley grits, small caliber
  • 1 medium-size onion, chopped
  • 1/4 cup of dried broad beans, or 1/2 cup of fresh broad beans (see note)
  • 2 liters of water
  • 1 cube of bouillon
  • 2 tbsp of tomato paste or 1 tbsp paprika
  • 1 tsp of ground black pepper
  • A good pinch of cayenne or a tsp of mild Harissa
  • 1/4 cup of coriander, chopped
  • 1 strip of khlii
  • 1 tbsp of khlii's sediments (agriche)
  • 2 tbsps of olive oil (if you are not using khlii)
  • Salt to taste 

Khlii and its sediments
Preparation

Rince the barley grits until water comes out clear.

In a deep saucepan, place water/bouillon, chopped onions and the broad/fava beans. Cook covered until soft.

Add the rest of the ingredients except the coriander and khlii. Stir frequently.

Passed 15 minutes, the barley grits should have become soft. Correct the seasoning, add the chopped coriander and khii. Add water if you think that the soup is too thick.

Serve warm.



Notes


  • Dried broad/fava beans need pre-soaking from 30 minutes to 1 hour. 


  • Fresh broad/fava beans can be parboiled for a few minutes before adding them, which comes in handy so you can peel them before you add them to the soup.


Moroccan milk and almond juice for happy events

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Almond and milk juice is very much linked to my summer breaks in Fez when I was little.

The season is usually synonym of weddings, families visiting each others across the country but also a scorching heat in cities like Fez. So cold drinks and fruits are welcomed anytime especially in the middle of the day.

So this version I'm about to post is the one I'm most familiar with. The wonderful Moroccan almonds with a deep almond flavour find their match with a touch of orange blossom and a fragrant meska (mastic) to make the perfect royal drink one can serve to his guests, along with stuffed Medjool (Mejhoul) dates with almond paste or just plain nuts and traditional homemade sweets.

Some almonds such as the common Californian destined for the global market can be kind of plain in taste, If you can get hold of some good Mediterranean varieties you should be fine but otherwise you may want to boost the almond flavour with a drop of extract. Pre-roasting the almonds here is not a solution here.




Ingredients
Serves 4
Prep: 15 min - Chilling: at least 3 hours

  • 800 ml of cow's milk, cold
  • 20 ml of water, cold
  • 100 g of blanched almonds (ideally blanched at home for more flavour)
  • 50 g of caster sugar
  • 3 drops of mastic, crushed with 1/2 tsp of caster sugar
  • 1 tsp of orange blossom water (not extract)



Preparation


Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 3 minutes. Wash with running water and drain for a couple of minutes. Peel them and re-wash them. Transfer to a kitchen towel and try to dry them thoroughly. This step can be made days ahead and the almonds frozen.

Method 1

Next, blend the blanched almonds with sugar and meska (mastic) to a paste. This step can also be made days ahead and the paste frozen. In this case, add the meska only when you mix the juice.

Mix the almond paste with water, meska and orange blossom water. Cover and set aside for a couple of hours to become soft.

Method 2

Mix the blanched almonds with water and orange blossom. leave in the fridge overnight, covered.

Next, blend the almonds with sugar and meska to a paste.

For both methods, transfer the almond mix to a liquidizer and blend with the milk as smooth as you can.

For both methods, lace a cheesecloth in a sieve and pour the juice through. 

Adjust the sweetness to your liking. Chill for a few hours before serving.


A small variety of almonds in Moroccan markets. The best for the job is the one
from the montains, called locally beldi


Note

The almond grits can be used in sweet breads, tartes and sweet bakes, nothing goes to waste.

While you will still find the common Californian almonds in Moroccan markets which a cheaper price tag, some of the varieties harvested in Morocco offer a better depth of flavour (source here):
  • Aïn taoujdate
  • Drake seeding
  • Fournat
  • Marcona 
  • Net plus Ultra
  • Ferragnès
  • Truono
Some of these almonds come from the specific areas in Morocco and are known to be perfect for the traditional almond paste used for the sweet pastries, while others are meant to be used in cooking or to garnish a sweet and savoury dish (Moroccan specialty). 

Marcona is ideal for roasting with salt and serving as a snack as we like them back home.



Moroccan lemonade/citronnade with vanilla ice cream, perfect for summer days

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This post is full of emotions for many reasons. First and foremost, Lemonade and ice cream juice has always meant to me a trip with my father to R'cif (a section of the old medina in Fez) and a stop at this old Fassi juices and nibble shop.

Call this joint a coffee shop, call it mahlaba, it was all in one. Located in a corner just before you hit the nougat folks with their amazing display.. I was in heaven.



So yes, it was a father and daughter trip to the world of treats.

Now my father is gone and so is the old man in the picture, after my dad as it seems.

I crossed that shop a few times since. I just could not order anything from it. Actually I never ordered anything beside that lemonade, now that I think of it. They were also selling almond briouates and sbiaats which are reputed to be better if homemade.

Morocco is a heavy producer of citrus fruits, mostly oranges, lemons (many varieties) and bitter orange, hence the abundance of orange blossom water. Fez's lemons are particularly sweeter as compared to other areas in Morocco due to the rich dark soil and water found in that area, and so are many other fruits and vegetables.

Everyone has a recipe of lemonade and it's a common homemade drink across the Mediterranean countries. Some like it sweeter than others and some like it more lemony than others.

However, we do prefer to zest the lemon and keep the zest in the lemon juice and sugar mix to macerate for a few hours before mixing with water and sifting.

The days went by and my mother started making a lot of this lemon/sugar/zest mix and freeze it in flattened plastic bags, which makes it available even when lemon becomes expensive or less juicy.


Ingredients
Serves 2
Prep: 10 min - Chilling: at least 3 hours. 

For the lemonade
  • About 600 ml of water
  • 60 - 100 ml of lemon juice (depending on how strong you like it)
  • Zest from the juiced lemons, preferably unwaxed and organic 
  • 100 g of caster sugar (adjust to your taste)
For serving
  • 2 big scoops of vanilla ice cream





Preparation

Homemade lemonade

Like mentioned above, the most demanding part of this mix can be made ahead and frozen.

Zest all the lemons and then juice them.

Mix the juice with the zest and the sugar. Cover and place in the fridge for at least 3 hours and even better if overnight. This is also the part of the recipe that can be frozen, in cubes or flattened plastic bags.

In a liquidizer, blend the lemon mix with cold water and then sieve it. Discard the lemon zest or use it in cakes.

Serving the lemonade with ice cream

Once chilled, pour it in glasses to serve, throw in a scoop of vanilla ice cream and stir. Serve.

Everyone who receives their drink should wait a couple of minutes then stir. The juice gets some creaminess from the ice cream. I prefer to stir as I go then use the spoon to finish the bit of ice cream which has not melted yet.

I used to walk the whole Medina up and down, That sort of activity needed that sweet and refreshing drink.



Moroccan Mqualli of chicken with confit of carrots and orange juice

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This recipe is largely inspired by Nihad Rachad's video . I did like her idea of using orange juice with the carrot topping. I was intrigued by it and it turned out to be a hit in my little family.

Actually, I was intrigued by the use of orange in the topping until I digged in some old recipe books and there it was: orange can be used as of topping in a few tagines, it's been done for ages and in different ways..



Although sugar is added to the confit of carrots, somehow, it does not come through as a sweet dish. That was another surprising thing in this dish which is perfect for the spring/summer season.

I just regretted we didn't have enough topping as I was still hungry for me by the end of the meal.



Ingredients
Serves 2
Prep: 10 min - Cooking: 1 hour ( 1 1/2 in a tagine over coal/wood)

For the chicken 

  • 1/2 chicken or 2 thighs from a big chicken, prepared (*) the Moroccan way 
  • 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
  • 1 heaped tsp of freshly grated ginger or flat tsp of ginger powder
  • 1/2 tsp of white pepper
  • 1/2 tsp of turmeric
  • A good pinch of saffron threads (1/2 tsp)
  • 1 small stick of cinnamon
  • 3 tbsps of olive oil
  • Salt to taste
For the confit of carrots with orange
  • 500 g of carrots, peeled and grated or finely julienned
  • 100 g of caster sugar
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • A pinch of cinnamon
  • 30 g of butter or olive oil
  • 200 ml of orange juice

Preparation

Place a pan or a tagine over medium heat. Add 1/4 of water, then all the ingredients and mix. Let simmer until the liquid has slightly reduced. Add enough hot water to cover 2/3 of the bird. Cover and cook for at least 40 min. The sauce should be reduced by then and the chicken cooked tender.

Make the confit of carrots

In a pan over medium heat, place the grated carrots along with the lemon and orange zest. Add water to cover 3/4 of the mix and blanch it for about 5 minutes.




Now that the water should have almost evaporated and the carrots are soft, add the rest of the ingredients and stir frequently for about 10 minutes. The carrots should be ready by then and the liquid all gone.

Serving

After cooking the chicken, you could slightly roast it for 15 minutes under a grill before serving it. Some people like this option.


If you have cooked the chicken in a tagine, just top it with the confit of carrots with orange.

If you have cooked in a pot or pan, place the chicken in the middle of a serving dish, pour the sauce on top and around. Top the chicken base with the carrot paste.

Serve warm with bread to soak that nice sauce.



(*) How to prepare the chicken for cooking in Moroccan Cuisine

In Morocco, we usually buy chicken from a market where it would be slaughtered the same day, on request, then treated with hot water to remove the feathers. Then the man in charge of this gives us the bird with its giblets and gizzards.

The bulk of chicken is then taken care of for further cleaning and tenderizing, this is a woman's job and it happens in the house, the same day the chicken was bought.

Buckets, sieves and brine are all what's needed to go about this..I give directions for 1 bird. For more, just multiply the ingredients.

This job is done once but then the freezer is stocked for months.

I do the the same for a couple of chickens every 2 weeks in my London kitchen.

For health safety, make sure you clean any surface or tool in contact with chicken with hot soapy water.

For 1 chicken
  • About 3 liters of water or enough to cover the bird (whole or in pieces)
  • 2 tbsps vinegar, 
  • 1 tbsp of salt 
  • Lemon or orange rinds, wedges or slices
How to clean the chicken

First of all, clean the chicken thoroughly. Rub it with sea salt and 1/2 a lemon or butter orange. 

Dip it in a brine for at least 3 hours.


Try to get rid of any fat between the skin and the meat (yep, those white spots, you will never find them in a chicken cooked Moroccan style). Discard any bit of feather left as well, the membrane between the skin and the meat.

Be careful not to tear up the skin if you want to roast the chicken.

Drain, pat dry and freeze for the future or carry on with your recipe of the day.




Moroccan-style Deviled eggs

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In Morocco, we are found of our boiled eggs, sprinkled with salt and cumin and served as a sandwich with cream cheese or Jben. This is everyone's favourite.

Hard-boiled eggs are also halved and served with cumin and salt, a spread of cheeses, cold cuts and olives for afternoon snacks after school. They're also served on Ramadan table.

I had guests over and I decided to treat my eggs differently. So they were prepared half-way between oeufs Mimosa and deviled eggs but with a Moroccan twist.

There is nothing complicated about these eggs. They can be made a few hours ahead end left in the fridge to firm up the creamy filling.

I had some leftovers for the next days, I just made a sandwich and my lunch was ready to go.



Ingredients
Serve 6 
Prep: 10 min - Cooking: 12- 15 min - Chilling: at least 2 hours
  • 6 large eggs, hard boiled 
  • 1 tbsp of mayo
  • 1 tbsp of creme fraiche (add one more if needed)
  • 3 tbsps of cream cheese or jben 
  • 1 tsp of Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp of harissa paste
  • 1 tbsp of chives, chopped (or parsley)
  • 2 tbsps of spring onions, chopped
  • A pinch of cumin
  • A good pinch of ground black pepper
  • Salt to taste




Preparation

Hard boil the eggs. To make sure you won't damage them while peeling them, transfer them directly to very cold water for 1 minute. Hit each egg with a spoon and roll it between your hands so the shell breaks from all sides. Grab one bit of the shell but also the membrane under it. The rest is easy, just peel all the way through. Set aside to cool.


Next, halve the eggs in length and delicately spoon out the egg yolk. Transfer it to a small bowl.

Add the rest of the ingredients, correct the seasoning and the heat to your liking.

Fill the egg white cavity. Place all the deviled eggs in a plastic container, cover and place in the fridge for at least a couple of hours.

Serve chilled with lettuce leaves or any green leaves.





Mini-croissant sandwiches

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For many Moroccan families I know, mini-danish and croissants are a better choice than big versions. We like to vary the serving dish and have a bit of each, which is kind of impossible with a big chuncky croissant, pain aux raisins or au chocolat. The same thing is valid for the quiches and savoury rolls..


In Ramadan, this logic of doing thing is applied all the way through Iftar/Ftour. However, in Ramadan, there is always leftovers. We spend the day craving for things and have large spreads of food on the table, only to end up eating a bit of it, but comes the time to eat: your stomach eats way less than your eyes, that's an expression to define what really happens..

Stale croissant can be used in many ways, one of them is to make mini-sandwiches and serve them for Sohour or the next Iftar. This idea came from the French-inspired things we find in some of our bakeries.

I'm giving the measurements and the combinations as a guideline. Feel free to adjust to your liking.




Ingredients
Serve 6
Prep: 15 min

  • 6 all butter mini-croissants, stale
  • 80 g of cold cuts slices (Smoked turkey, mortadella, Moroccan cacher)
  • 80 of sliced cheese, soft or hard (Camembert, Brie, Edam, Gouda...)
  • 2 tbsps of gherkins, sliced thin
  • 1 tbsp of mayo
  • 1 tbsp of cream cheese or Jben
  • 1/2 tsp of mustard
  • Ground black pepper
  • A handful of lettuce leaves



Preparation

Cut the croissants through in half. Place them all in a non stick frying pan or a baking sheets (inside facing the pan). Heat for 1 minute in the pan and about 3 minutes in a preheated oven at 220 degrees.

Set aside to cool.

In the meantime, mix the mayonnaise, cream cheese and mustard. Spread one side of the croissant with it.

Layer the lettuce, the cheese and the cold cut. Finish with the gherkins and a sprinkle of black pepper.

Place the top of the croissant. Press a bit. Do the same for each croissant.

Place all these sandwich-croissants in a plate and cover with a cling-film. Place in the fridge for a hour and serve later.

Some people sprinkle the croissant with grated cheese and pass them for a minute under a grill before serving..I just serve them at room temperature or slightly cooled.




Spinach and mushroom quiche and the ABC of a standard quiche

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There are many savoury tarts and quiches posted here (see below for links and ideas). However, I just figured that I never posted the recipe for a basic quiche.

Quiche is a very common savoury snack found in Moroccan bakeries across main cities. It's obviously reminiscent of the French presence in Morocco for about 40 years.

We love quiches, they're sold (or homemade) in small or medium size with a variety of classic fillings which we love back home : onions, mushrooms, spinach and smoked salmon, pink shrimp.

Quiches are usually available starting from 10. 30 am or 4 pm in most of the good bakeries, along with mini pizzas and other savoury and sweet goodies..It makes a nice filling bite before dinner time..

I usually make my mini-quiches at home. I even freeze them unbaked and bake them when needed.

Mini-quiches are a Ramadan favourite too, part of the Iftar/Ftour table especially in the urban area.



The ABC of a standard quiche (must read)


  • I personally prefer using a shortcrust dough as a base for my quiches. Totally not fan of the puff pastry in this case. The French quiche comes with either or anyway.
  • The next thing you need to make sure of, whichever vegetable filling you will be using, make sure it's been pre-sauteed, whithered (sweating for onions and leeks is the right word) then drained from excess liquid.
  • The third thing you want to make sure of is not to over-fill the quiche. It shouldn't overflow.
  • The last thing I want to tell you about is what the French call "appareil à quiche" which is the white liquid poured to fill the dough cases. You can have 50%-50% single cream/milk or 100% single cream. I sometimes use milk and fromage blanc or cream cheese (see recipes below). It really works and gives wonderful results. But like I said, let's concentrate on the basic appareil à quiche that you have to learn by heart to make any quiche.
  • Ideally, after you fill the tin casings with a thin layer or dough and prick it, you will need to place the filling (spinach, mushroom, shrimp, bacon...) then pour the "appareil à quiche". 
  • It's conventional that quiche does not have grated cheese on top but since many people add that for a "gratiné" effect, no one will blame you. The more cheese the merrier.
  • No soggy bottom.
  • I freeze the mini-quiches before baking so I don't have to start from the beginning anytime I need them.
  • When you make mini-quiches, it's likely that the appareil à quiche needed will be less than what's required for a standard quiche (less than 25 mm diameter) while you might need more or just about the same amount of dough. Then again it depends on the tins used (some are deeper than other). When I have shallow deep cases/tins, I just half the amount of ingredients needed to make the appareil à quiche. The other thing is to use it to make crustless quiches for those in diet.
  • Quiches in all sizes are ideally eaten at room temperature, which make them perfect for buffets, picnics and food to go.
  •  You can make the dough ahead of time, the filling as well but you can leave the appareil a quiche when you are about to build the quiche (s) and bake them.
  • It's also possible to pre-bake the dough casing before filling it, then you will need less time to bake at a lower temperature (160 degrees C).

Now that we cleared all that, let's get on with the recipe. I suggest a spinach, jben (or ricotta) and mushroom for the filling but again, the dough and appareil à quiche are the standards ones you need to use for any other quiche recipe.



Ingredients
Serves 6 -8 (20- 25 mm diameter or 8 medium or 16+ mini) 
Prep: 15 min (does not involve dough making) - Cooking: 1 hour

Savoury shortcrust pastry
  • 250g of all purpose flour
  • 125g of cold butter, in cubes
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • A good pinch of black pepper (optional)
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 -3 tbsps of cold milk
Filling
  • 4 handfuls of spinach leaves (or a bunch), approximately
  • 200 g of button mushrooms, sliced
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsps of olive oil
  • 1 tbsp of butter
  • 50 -80 g of ricotta, fetta or jben (Moroccan white cheese)
  • 40 g of grated cheese (emmental, edam, comtégruyère..)
Appareil à quiche 
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks 
  • 25 ml of single cream or creme fraiche
  • 25 ml of milk
  • 1/2 tsp of salt 
  • 1/4 tsp of black pepper
  • A pinch of grated nutmeg



Preparation

Shortcrust dough

Mix the flour with salt, pepper and butter and mix to a crumbly/sandy texture. You may use a food processor with a blade for this step.

Add the egg yolk mixed with the milk to the first mix. Gently bring the mix together without overworking the dough. Flatten to an "abaisse" in a cling film. Cover and freeze for 25 min or place in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Spinach and mushrooms filling

Over medium heat, saute the mushrooms in olive oil for about a minute. Season and stir.
Cover for another 2 minutes (it helps them cooking through). Lift the lid and cook for another 30 seconds.

Set aside. Use the same pan to saute the spinach in butter for about 2 minutes.

Leave both ingredients to cool.

Appareil à quiche 

With a hand mixer, beat the eggs with salt, pepper and nutmeg. You don't need to bring air to the mix.

Add the liquid and mix to combine.

Assemble the quiche (s)

Roll the dough maximum 2 mm thin, place in tart or muffin tin(s). Prick all around.

Place the cold filling of mushroom and spinach. Scatter some nuggets/dots of white cheese on top,


Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly.

Pour the appareil à quiche delicately and evenly all the way to the top but do not allow it to overflow. If you are worried it happens, pour 2/3 of it and once you place the quiche(s) is in the oven, finish off up to the edges.



Bake and serve

Bake at 170 -180 degrees for 45 -50 minutes for a large or medium quiches, about 35 min for mini quiches. Serve at room temperature.



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For more ideas on fillings and "appareil" mixes, visit these previous posts :

Tarte au fromage with variations (ideas for filling only, see recipe link below for a guideline)


Shrimp, spinach and comte cheese

Salmon, shrimp and chives
Cheese tart with mushrooms and caramelized onions


Savoury cheese tart with leeks




Savoury tarts and quiches with different fillings



Cheese tartlets with a Mediterranean flair



Spinach and salmon mini-quiches


A spinach quiche that sounds healthy!

Mini mushroom tartlets with an unusual cheese dough




Savoury crêpes and kefta pinwheels

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Well if you already know about crêpes stuffed with savoury fillings, today's recipe is not that far from this idea, only presented differently.

I had the idea of these savoury crepes and ground meat pinhwheels from Rachida Amhaouche's "Canapés et salés ". She's a famous Moroccan cookbook writer.

You can make the crepes ahead of time (a couple of days), the filling can also be made a few hours ahead of time too. Just assemble and bake before serving time for a stress-free starter/appetizer.

A served a couple of pinwheels along with chard bakkoula for a complete meal

Ingredients
Serves 8
Prep: 20 min - cooking: 40 min

Crêpes (my trusted recipe, about 8)
  • 125g all purpose flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 50g of butter
  • 30 ml of milk
  • A good pinch of salt
  • A good pinch of black pepper
Filling
  • 200g of lean ground meat
  • 80 g of mushrooms, chopped
  • 1 medium-size onion, chopped
  • 1/2 tsp of ground cumin
  • 1 tbsp of sweet paprika
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsps of olive oil
  • Red or green pepper, aubergines, spinach leaves as an option
  • Any herb you fancy
Garnishing
  • 100 g of hard cheese, grated (Edam, cheddar, Emmental..)
A dollop of yogurt on top is not a bad idea


Preparation

Prepare crêpes (ahead of time)

In a blender, add milk, the eggs followed by the rest of the ingredients. Blend for a minute. Transfer to a container. Cover and set aside in the fridge for at least 30 min or overnight.

To cook crepes, dip a bit of kitchen paper in melted butter and smear the pan with it and scoop enough batter to cover the bottom with a thin layer.

After a minute or once the edges start coming off, turn the crepes and cook them on the other side. The whole process should not take more than 3 minutes per crepe. Set aside to cool.

Like mentioned earlier, you can make crêpes a couple of days ago, just cover them with a kitchen paper and cling film and keep them in the fridge.

Make the meat filling

Sauté all the ingredients for a few minutes until they're cooked through. Season to taste. Feel free to use your favourite herbs.

Set aside to cool.

Shaping and baking the pinwheels

Preheat the oven at 200 degrees.

Mix half of the grated cheese with the meat filling.

Place enough of the filling on the top of a crêpe . Place another crêpe on top and again cover it with filling. Roll.

Follow the same logic with another couple of crêpes.





Delicately line up all the pinwheels on a baking sheet covered with baking paper. Grate the cheese on top.

Bake for about 7-10 minutes.

Serve at room temperature.


Lactose-free and fuss-free dough for quiches and tartlets

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This dough I'm about to share with you today is the star of this post.

It has all working for it, a fuss-free, a lactose-free, a forgiving dough and it really works for small moulds. It has a good texture, it does not spring back..It's just perfect even for beginners.

I have to admit that I bought about 48 mini petits-fours moulds years ago, following on my elder sister and my mother before here..I knew I will be putting them to good use one day but I just felt like any dough will puff if baked blank even after pricking it. And no I couldn't see myself filling each tiny mould with beans as it would have been too much work..


To make a sweet version of this lactose-free dough, you just reduce the salt, replace the flavourings and add 30 to 50g of sugar.


All the credit for this finding goes to Piroulie whose blog was a real inspiration when I started with this blogging experience. She's been one of the must trusted French bloggers since blogging has started.

While the quiches need the filling to cook and the base to be shaped, the dough itself take literally less than 5 minutes to make.

I find freezing it before baking helps keeping the shape perfect.

This recipe is freezer-friendly at any stage: either when you make the dough or shape it in its moulds, or fill it (without the cream though) or even bake it all.

You can also make the dough casings a few days earlier, bake them blank and keep them in an airtight container over the counter..



Ingredients
Makes 50 + mini quiches and tartlets
Prep: 20 min - Baking: 10 min (blank) to 30 min (filled)

The lactose-free quiche base
  • 300g flour (more or less)
  • 90 ml of boiling water
  • 10 ml of vinegar
  • 100 ml of oil (50%-50% olive oil/veg oil for me)
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • 5 g of baking powder
  • Black pepper, tarragon or oregano or thyme (optional)
For the onion filling
  • 2 medium-size yellow/white onion, finely sliced
  • 1 tbsp of olive oil
  • 1 tsp of butter
  • A good sprinkle of thyme or/and oregano
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • About 3 bits of sun-dried tomatoes in oil,  chopped
For the cream mix
  • 100 ml of single or fresh cream
  • 1 egg, small
  • Salt, pepper to taste
  • A pinch of nutmeg
For the pepper filling
  • About 2 cups of sliced sweet peppers, mixed colours
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 2 tbsps of tomato puree or grated tomatoes
  • 1 tsp of harissa paste (optional)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Black olives or black olive tapenade 
  • A good sprinkle of thyme or oregano
Extras
  • A few cuts of khlii
  • 100 g of grated cheese (Gruyere, Edam, Provolone...)
  • A few parsley leaves


Preparation

Mix all ingredients together except flour and baking powder which you need to add just afterward.
Combine to a dough.

Roll over a floured surface as thin as you can (about 1 mm). Do not over-flour the surface so the dough keeps a good texture after it's baked.

Cut shapes that will fit into your moulds, press the bottom to expel air and the edges firmly.

Prick as much as you can.

You can either freeze this at this stage or fill it and freeze it or bake it black and freeze it.

I freeze the dough in the moulds for 15 minutes, by the time the oven is well preheated.




Assembly and baking

Preheat the oven at 180 degrees C. Place all the mini-moulds in a baking sheet.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes.

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